Angeles Chapter Rock Climbing Section: Gone But Not Forgotten

RCS climbers on the summit of Mt Whitney after the first ascent of the East Buttress, September 5, 1937. L to R: Dick Jones, Bob Brinton (rear), Muir Dawson (Glen's brother), Howard Koster (rear),Glen Dawson. photo by George Shochat courtesy of Glen Dawson (Angeles Chapter archives)

The Sierra Club's combination of conservation and outdoor activities produces something greater than the sum of the parts, each facet reinforcing the other. Founder John Muir was a mountaineer, and mountain climbing developed early as club focus. The 1920s saw the increasing popularity of mountain climbing, with Norman Clyde leading the way. By the early 1930s many younger participants of the Club's annual High Trips were pushing the boundaries of mountaineering that could be safely performed without the introduction of improved techniques. The rock climbing equipment and techniques developed 1900-1930 in the Alps were essentially unknown in California.

The situation began to change in 1930, when Sierra Club Bulletin editor Francis Farquhar recruited Dr. Robert L. M. Underhill, a leading east coast climber with experience in Europe, to write an article on roped climbing techniques. 'On the Use and Management of the Rope in Rock Work' appeared in the February 1931 'annual number' of the Bulletin.

To follow up, Farquhar arranged for Underhill to train Sierra mountaineers in rope and piton techniques during the 1931 High Trip. A small but eager Sierra Club group quickly took up the advanced methods. By 1932, the Cragmont Climbing Club had been organized in the San Francisco Bay area, led by Dick Leonard, Bestor Robinson, and Jules Eichorn. The Cragmont members were mostly also Sierra Club members, and in November of 1932, the Club agreed to let them become the Rock Climbing Section (RCS). They developed the 'dynamic belay' and began making technical climbs in Yosemite Valley, culminating with the first ascents of the Higher and Lower Cathedral Spires in 1934.

The Bay Chapter RCS ran a program emphasizing local practice climbs to hone climbing ability as well as to practice belaying, anchoring, and the use of pitons. An occasional participant in the Bay RCS practice climbs was Los Angeles resident Glen Dawson, son of active Southern California Chapter leader Ernest Dawson. Glen had been a star of Underhill's 1931 class and hoped to train climbing partners in the Southland.

An opportunity to introduce organized rock climbing in our area arose in 1933. Young Sierrans were forming a Junior Section, and Glen and his friends were able to schedule three Bay RCS-style practice climbs for the new section in 1933- 1934. Using Eagle Rock and Bee Rock (in Griffith Park), Glen, Dick Jones, and John Poindexter introduced the Bay RCS type of local climbing to our Chapter.

By the summer of 1934, it was obvious that a southern RCS was feasible. Glen Dawson was just starting his last year at UCLA and would be leaving for a year's trip around the world in June 1935. He wasn't too enamored of getting into a lot of committee work, either. However, one of the participants in the Junior Section climbs, Arthur B. Johnson, was willing to take on the organizational work. A nucleus of climbers convinced the Chapter Executive Committee to authorize a southern RCS in September 1934, with Art Johnson as chair.

The Southern California RCS was immediately successful and grew rapidly. To a large degree, rock climbing in Southern California was established through the RCS. Over the years, many smaller groups came into existence, and professional schools and guides came eventually. But the emergence of a critical mass of climbers was a direct outgrowth of the RCS. Some of the notable events of the early RCS are shown in the accompanying timeline.

As the 1950s drew to a close, the next generation of leading rock climbers learned from the RCS and sometimes climbed with the section, but often went their separate ways. Climbers like Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost took the RCS safety test but never joined. They went on to partner with Royal Robbins and others to lead the culmination of the 'Golden Age' of Yosemite climbing in the 1960s, when Californians perfected big wall climbing and led the world in climbing expertise.

The RCS remained vital and active in the 1960s through the early 1980s, furnishing fellowship and providing a way for aspiring climbers to learn climbing and safety techniques. The avantgarde rock climbers mostly operated outside of organized groups, but they owed a profound debt to the RCS for establishing the tradition of safe climbing in our region. And hundreds of competent week-end climbers learned to enjoy the rocks.

The RCS came to an end as a Sierra Club section in 1985, when insurance difficulties caused the Club to suspend technical climbing outings. The Southern California Mountaineers Association (SCMA) began outings in 1986 as the direct successor to the RCS. Thus the RCS tradition of fellowship and teaching lives on in Southern California.

A Who's Who in the History of Angeles RCS

Nick Clinch (1930-) - RCS 1957, attorney, past executive director Sierra Club Foundation, past AAC President. Leader of expeditions to the Himalaya (highest first ascents (FA's) by Americans), the Antarctic (1966 FA's of the highest Antarctic peaks), and China (1985 FA Ulugh Muztagh). Farquhar Award 1974, AAC Gold Medal 2006 for lifetime contributions to mountaineering.

Glen Dawson (1912-) - RCS instigator and charter member 1934, bookseller, originator of the Mugelnoos newsletter 1938. A leading Sierra Club climber and skier of the 1930s; numerous FA's in the Sierra with Jules Eichorn and others including East Face and East Buttress of Mt Whitney, Dawson Minaret, etc. Farquhar Award 1973. Son of Sierra Club President Ernest Dawson and a Director of the Club himself.

Bill 'Dolt' Feuerer (1932-1971) - RCS 1961, aerospace engineer, premium climbing equipment maker, participant in Totem Pole FA 1957 and the Nose of El Capitan 1958. A legendary climbing 'character.'

Jerry Gallwas (1936-) - RCS 1952, chemist, a leader of the San Diego contingent of climbers, Tahquitz FA's, desert tower FA's 1956-57 (see timeline), FA of the Northwest Face of Half Dome 1957 with Robbins and Sherrick (see timeline).

Jim Gorin (1913-2004) - RCS 1942, chair 1944, vice-chair 1945, Safety Committee chair 1949, the only one-legged RCS climber. Chapter chair three times, with the unique distinction of serving during three decades (‘40s, ‘50s, and ‘60s). Liked to say his missing leg was a climbing advantage due to weight savings.

TM Herbert (1936-) - RCS 1961, many FA's at Tahquitz, Yosemite, etc. Legendary jokester and storyteller, a major participant in Yosemite in the 1960s with Robbins, Chouinard, Pratt, Kamps, etc.

Art Johnson (1906-1984) - RCS charter member, civil engineer, first RCS chair 1934-37, early Tahquitz FA's, frequent trip leader, Three on a Rope star 1938. Chair of chapter's State Parks Committee 1940 (instrumental in creation of Anza-Borrego State Park), chair of Long Beach Group 1946, spearheaded expansion of Harwood Lodge 1949-51, chapter chair 1951, club director 1951-54, Weldon Heald Conservation Award 1961, American Motors Conservation Award 1961.

Dick Jones (1912-1995) - RCS 1935, aircraft manufacturing mechanic, RCS secretary 1937, Ski Mountaineer, Hi Trip participant, frequent leader in 1930s. Boyhood friend of Glen Dawson, co-led first Junior Section climbing practice outing in 1933, led FA of 'Swiss Arête' of Mt Sill 1937, on FA East Buttress of Mt Whitney 1937, led FA Mechanic's Route at Tahquitz 1937 (a milestone in North America - see timeline). Married Adrienne Applewhite, an author and early female rock climber.

Bob Kamps (1931-2005) - RCS 1957, school teacher, many FA's at Tahquitz, Yosemite, Tuolumne, Needles of South Dakota, etc.; FA the Diamond on Long's Peak, Colorado, 1960 (see timeline). One of the foremost free climbers of his era, legendary participant in Yosemite's Golden Age, mentor to many.

Barbara Lilley - RCS 1952, secretary 1955 & 1956, FA's at Tahquitz and the Sierra, Ski Mountaineer (chair), peak bagger extraordinaire, Farquhar Award 2003. Remarkable length and breadth of mountain career encompassing ranges from Alaska to the Andes.

John Mendenhall (1911-1983) - RCS 1938, civil engineer, chair 1939 & 1958, FA's at Tahquitz, the Sierra (beginning in 1930), and Canada, Farquhar Award 1978. Ski Mountaineer (chair), chapter Executive Committee, 'iron man' leader with over 75 outings leads over nearly 40 years. Co-author of books with his wife Ruth, his frequent climbing partner. An early hero of Royal Robbins and his generation.

Ruth Dyar Mendenhall (1912-1989) - RCS 1938; trained as a journalist; RCS secretary 1953; FA of Swiss Arête of Mt Sill 1938; FA's Tahquitz, Sierra, Canada; Ski Mountaineer; Farquhar Award 1978. Editor-in-chief of the Mugelnoos for 40 years from 1938, setting a unique and witty style. Author of books on backpacking, backpack cookery, and mountaineering techniques. Climbing memoirs published 2007 as Woman on the Rocks: The Mountaineering Letters of Ruth Dyar Mendenhall.

May Pridham (1909-1993) - RCS 1935, school teacher, RCS secretary 1935 & 1936, early female climber and outings leader, High Trip participant, FA's in the Sierra, namesake of Pridham Minaret, talented cartoonist who enlivened the early Mugelnoos with the 'Little Gem Equipment Company' inventions.

Royal Robbins (1935-) - RCS 1952, bank employee and later a clothing maker, thought by many to be the leading climber of Yosemite's Golden Age. Innumerable FA's (in North America as well as Europe), rock climbing editor of the old Summit magazine. An advocate for climbing ethics aimed at keeping adventure (uncertainty) in climbing. Publication of multi-volume autobiography in progress.

Chuck Wilts (1920-1991) - RCS 1942, professor of engineering at Caltech (PhD 1948), chair 1945 & 1948, Safety Committee chair 1951, 1954, 1957. First free ascent of Higher Cathedral Spire 1944 (see timeline). A leading climber of the 1940s and 1950s, admired by Robbins and Salathé. Many FA's including Tahquitz, Yosemite, the Sierra, and the Canadian Rockies. Ski Mountaineer (chair 1955 & 1963). Editor of successive editions of the Climber's Guide to Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks in 1956, 1962, 1970, 1974 and 1979.

Ellen Wilts (1925-2008) - RCS 1946, trained in music, RCS secretary 1947 & 1960, FA's at Tahquitz, Yosemite, the Sierra, and Canadian Rockies (frequently with Chuck, whom she married in 1947). Ski Mountaineer (first woman chair 1953). One of the earliest female climbers (along with Ruth Mendenhall) to command wide respect through commitment and accomplishments.

Don Wilson (1932-1970) - RCS 1953, neuroethologist, RCS chair 1954, co-developer (with Wilts and Robbins) of the Yosemite Decimal System to rate climbing difficulty. FA's at Tahquitz and Yosemite, desert tower FA's 1956-57 (see timeline), Tahquitz guide co-author 1956.