Muir Dawson

Chair, Angeles Chapter History Committee

Grand old Nature
She made them pure
Both the Pine
And little Muir
(Dick Jones poem, from Glen Dawson journal, 1930)

With the passing of Muir Dawson at age 83 on Feb. 21, the Angeles Chapter has lost one of its longest-term members and most ardent supporters.

Eight-year-old Muir Dawson on upper slopes of Mt. San Antonio, Sept. 9, 1930. photo courtesy Glen Dawson Collection, Sierra Club-Angeles Chapter Archives

Born into a family steeped in the Sierra Club-father Ernest served as president of the Club, while elder brother Glen was a pioneer rock climber and a Club director-Muir was named after Sierra Club founder John Muir. In his youth he followed in the family tradition by taking up rock climbing and ski mountaineering. By 1938, at age 16, he was leading outings to Stoney Point for the Rock Climbing Section, as well as events for the Ice Skating Committee and the Ski Mountaineering Section. He continued leading chapter outings through the late 1950s.

As a protégé of Glen, Muir participated in many climbs that were at the forefront of technical mountaineering in the 'golden age' of rock climbing as developed through the rock climbing sections of Southern California and the Bay Area. In 1937, he joined Glen Dawson, Howard Koster, Bob Brinton, and Dick Jones in making the first ascent of the Sunshine-Peewee Route on Mt. Whitney (now known as the East Buttress Route), at the time one of the most difficult big wall climbs to have been attempted.

Muir joined brother Glen in many other climbing efforts, including a pioneer ascent of Bugaboo Spire in British Columbia, but their most lasting partnership was in the management of Dawson's Bookshop, inherited from father Ernest. Both brothers were fixtures at the store, with Muir developing particular expertise in the history of printing and in books dealing with Japanese prints, along with participating in many publishing ventures. Both brothers were always modest of their mountaineering exploits, and for those of us drawn to the bookshop by its well-stocked mountaineering shelves, it was hard to imagine the unassuming duo had participated in such high adventures.

As a distinguished bookseller and bibliophile, Muir served as president of the Antiquarian Booksellers Association and president of the Book Club of California.

When the Angeles Chapter History Committee was trying to figure out how to celebrate the Chapter's Diamond Jubilee in 1986, it was Muir who volunteered his expertise in producing high quality slide programs at the service of the committee. After months of rummaging through personal and chapter photographic archives, developing a script, and obtaining the services of a professional voice-over artist, Muir produced the centerpiece program for the Diamond Jubilee Party held in November of 1986. Afterwards, Muir graciously donated the slides and script to the Chapter; they have been since incorporated into the chapter eArchive. For these efforts, Muir received a 1986 Special Service Media Award from the Angeles Chapter.

Muir Dawson continued to support the Chapter through participation on the History Committee, offering sage advice on archival and publishing projects right up until his death. His record of 67 years of service to the Club is truly outstanding. This kindly man will be greatly missed.